Nautie Tidbits :: No Longer Adrift!

• I didn't write much about it but for the last week our vessel has been adrift awaiting cargo orders. 
• The good news?  We're on our way to a load port in RUSSIA!  I am going to go through the Black Sea!  I'm very, very excited about this....
• Which is why you haven't seen too much in the way of posting - I've been pulling charts, laying courses and researching Vessel Traffic call in points.  It's always a mad dash to get a voyage plan ready when you have no idea where you are going until the phone call comes.  Such is the life.
• Other than being quite busy on the bridge I've been quite busy at the gym.  I've done a fair amount of working out in the last few days.
• I'm so sore!  Sore!  I limp up the stairs to the bridge and try to avoid lifting my arms over my head. 
• No pain no gain!
• Those are all my tidbits.....lots of charts, lots of gym, not a lot of sleepy time.....

Nautie Friends Ask :: What are your thoughts on the Costa Concordia?

I've gotten several e-mails asking me what I think about the Costa Concordia (the cruise ship that was wrecked off the coast of Italy) and I must admit I'm hesitent to let my thoughts slip into the pipes of the interwebz however; I'm going to go ahead and let them slip (and I'm going to try not to swear).  When I departed La Spezia, Italy I actually saw the Costa Concordia on our electronic display - and I received their distress message.  Regardless of how I feel about the actions leading up to the casualty I have to remind myself that this incident has changed peoples lives.  For some, it will be the worst day of their lives.  I can't begin to imagine the terror experienced.

That being said, here's what I think:  It never should have happened.....but the crew did an amazing job. 

Look, the shipping industry is tricky - and bad things happens.....truly shitty, messed up things happen.  Straight up.  There you have it. 

Before I go any further I also have to say that I work on tankers - and have very little experience on other types of vessels.  The tanker trade and the cruise ship industry are two very different things.  I can't speak much about regulations governing cruise ships or on what constitutes standard operating procedures.

I've been reading about the Costa Concordia as much as possible - and just about everything I've read sounds like drivel.  I think it's very important to note that the vast majority of what we are reading is straight up speculation.  We're also reading a lot of commentary and data from outside sources.  It wasn't more than a day or two ago when we all believed the root of the incident was an explosion in the engine room.  I read an entire article about 'harmonic interference' and its ability to cause explosions.  We actually discussed this at the mess deck table - looking at each other we all said, 'have you ever heard of harmonic interference?  no?  me neither...'. 

Tankers are incredibly regulated.  This ship could honestly use an administrative assitant.  We do an insane amount of paperwork.  Just about every move we make is documented.  If I want to change a light bulb in one of my navigation lights I need to fill out reports - I need to have the Chief Mate and the Chief Engineer sign off on my work permits - I need to have electrical components tagged out by the First Assistant Engineer.  The voyage plans that I generate receive incredibly intense scrutiny from third party inspectors - most of these inspectors are dispatched by an oil major like BP.  I have requirements for position fixing intervals - when within 3nm of land I need to plot my position on the chart every 6 minutes - my positions can not be just electronic (i.e. GPS) - they must be a mixture (for example radar ranges and bearings, visual bearings, etc.).  It makes me wonder how much regulation a cruise ship faces and what their inspection process looks like. 

A tanker would never think of giving an island a 'salute'.  I've never even heard of such a thing.  A drive by?  Really?  I can just see myself sitting at my favorite beach on the Big Island and watching an oil tanker cruise by 200 meters off the shoreline.  Would I be thinking, 'Cool!  He just gave us a salute!'?  Chances are I'd think it was a big 'ole f-u more than a salute.

If I was the Captain of a tanker and I submitted a voyage plan for a 'salute' to the office for approval I'd expect to be fired.  Seriously.  I would hope that my company would take one look at a plan like that and think 'Megan the NautieCaptain clearly lacks sound judgement'.  To read that the company had previously approved such a plan is disheartening.  Truly disheartening.  We can all jump up and down and say that the Captain is a crack pot but, was he really?  He simply did something that had already been done - had already been done with the blessing of the company!  Which makes me think that maybe some checks and balances need to be established between cruise ships and their shore side managers to ensure that sound decisions are being made.

As to the Captains actions during the evolution to abandon ship who can truly say?  What I do know is this - don't discredit the effects of shock.  As a mariner you can only hope that when an emergency strikes you will fall back on your training.  You hope that your experience will lead you to make sound decisions.  You hope that your fellow officers and crew can do the same. 

When I read of the Captain leaving the vessel early (as in before many of the passengers) I didn't immediately think it was terrible.  What I would have liked to see was an alternate location set up as 'command headquarters'.  I don't think it's one hundred percent necessary for the Captain to remain on the bridge until the very last minute.  I do think it's necessary for the Captain to gather drawings of the ship, emergency plans, log books, hand held VHF radios - anything that could possibly be used to assist in search and rescue operations - and set up a centralized location to be used for organizing and directing emergency response.  I think that if the Captain could have established himself as the on scene coordinator (even if not on the vessel) he would have maintained his effectiveness in a time of crisis. 

I think that the ships crew did an amazing job.  There were 3,000 passengers and 1,000 crew.  The vessel experienced only a 1 or 2 % loss of life.  I in no way mean to undermine the sadness of the lives lost.  I think about how I myself would have managed the situation if aboard and can't even imagine.  Three thousand scared, frantic, disoriented humans is no joke.  The mob mentality alone is incredibly frightening.  I think of my current situation - I'm aboard a vessel with 20 crew members - what would it look like if we were all responsible for 3 people during an emergency?  While I may be able to direct three people would a messman be able to?  Now, instead of getting 20 people into a lifeboat we need to get 80 people into a lifeboat.  Again, I think the ships crew did an amazing job.

I've never taken a cruise.  It is just about the lowest thing on my list of things I'd like to do.  Do you know what you are when you go on a cruise?  Human cargo.  If a tanker ran aground and lost integrity of the hull a 1 or 2 % loss of cargo would be considered a miracle.  Lives lost can never be considered a miracle. 

Sometimes, when I'm on the bridge at night I play the 'what if' game.  What would I do if someone fell overboard right now?  What would I do if there was a fire right now?  What would I do if we had a collision right now?  I can only hope and pray that I never experience these things however; I also hope and pray that if I do experience these things I can respond efficiently and effectively.

My heart goes out to the crew of the Costa Concordia.  I hope that someone has said thank you to them in the last few days and, I hope that they are being treated like the heroes they are.

My Uncle Bob.

Here's a shout out to my Uncle Bob.  I'm pretty sure today is his birthday - HAPPY BIRTHDAY UNCLE BOB! I think my Uncle Bob is pretty cool.  I think most people do.  He's my Mom's oldest brother.  My Mom calls him 'Big Brother Bob'...never just plain old Bob....she'll say, 'I need to phone my big brother Bob'....as an only child this always kind of cracked me up however; I never just call him Bob or even Uncle Bob.....I always say, 'My Uncle Bob'.

My Uncle Bob has a good wife.  He also has three boys - they're all older than me.  I pretty much spent every summer at their house when I was growing up.  My Mom sent me to Canada every summer - which was probably a really good thing - and I'd go and stay at their house.  I thought it was the greatest thing ever.  I'd go to Hockey games, and lacrosse games....I'd shuffle around with my Auntie....I'd visit other Cousins and Grandparents....sometimes I'd go visit Uncle Bob at work.

My Uncle Bob is building a Chubby in his garage.  I had no idea what a Chubby was....and I guess I still don't know how a Chubby is different than any other kind of car you'd build in your garage.

My Uncle Bob is a welder.  He's actually much more than a welder and I just have no way of articulating it all....there are boilers involved and sometimes ships or large plants.  When I was growing up he was the Dean of a Vocational College where he taught as well....and he also does a lot of private jobs. 

My Uncle Bob makes things and fixes things.  My Uncle Bob works hard...really hard. 

Most importantly, My Uncle Bob deserves a very large thanks from me.  When I was growing up I used to listen to my Grandpa, Mother, and Uncles sit around and debate the merits of education.  While my family are all staunch supporters of a formal education (thanks in large part to my Grandmother) my Uncle Bob maintained that you were wasting your time if you didn't have a skill.  A trade. 

My Uncle Bob was adament that the necessity of a trade did not just apply to men - it applied to women as well. 

Growing up in a family of hard workers I knew that I'd have to get my hands dirty to get ahead in life.  A standard had been set by all.

I have a trade - so do my cousins - thanks almost exclusively to My Uncle Bob.

Happy Birthday Uncle Bob!

p.s. Uncle Bob, I think you should take the day off work today and:

• have some tea and disgestives on the couch with the wifey or 
• take a drive - I know you drive a lot these days but, a good 'ole drive for a bite of food might do you wonders or
• putz around on your Chubby or
• visit some Grandbabies

Cinque Terre :: Corniglia

Corniglia was my last stop.  We arrived by train and the station was a bit of a ways outside of town.  There was a small shuttle bus that met the train and took you into the heart of town. Just like the other towns just about everything was closed.  Corniglia wasn't quite as perfectly situated on the water as Manarola.  What Corniglia did have going for it was tons of coffee shops, art galleries and restaurants - granted none of them were open while I was there but, there was insane potential.

When we left Manarola I declared that I was freakin' starving!  I also warned my new travel buddy that a melt down may ensue if there wasn't some food soon (Mom, you feel me right?!)!  We hit pay dirt. 

There was one restaurant open and it was on a hillside overlooking towards the ocean.  The town was to the left and the terraced hillside was to the right.  I might have to call it epic.  There was a small courtyard area where we ate - in the center of the courtyard was a lemon treaded loaded with fruit.  When we walked in there was another group dining however; we soon had the place to ourselves.

All I can say is 'Holy Homemade Pesto!'!!!  Seriously, the food was delicious.  We had some appetizers....as in anchovies and capers with garlic on bread....I had exactly two nibbles.  We had fresh tomatoes with olive oil.  We had meals covered in pesto.  It was scrumdillyumpsious. 

I can neither confirm nor deny but I've been told that the wine in Cinque Terre is fabulous.  The grapes from this region actually produce a crisp slightly sweet white wine....hmm....sounds like something I might enjoy!  One thing that I really would like to see (ahem, would need to return to see) are the terraced vinyards in full swing.  Because we were there during winter months the vines had no leaves on them so, when you looked at the hillsides it was very hard to distinguish the actually terraces. 

I will admit that I had a mini meltdown at the restaurant.  I was very fixated on getting to see all the towns.  After we ordered I realized that the train was leaving in 15 minutes.  We could either stay and enjoy the meal or ask for it to go and run with it.  Clearly, running with homemade pasta and peso is less than ideal.  We stayed.  Enjoyed the meal and then had the best treat ever.  Our hosts were very talkative and wanted to spend time with us...another perk to being there in the winter....they had time to do so!  They ended up walking us through the kitchen and into their house.  They use the home as a B&B during the summer months.  The best part?  There was a large terrace on the roof with amazing views of the small valley, wine terraces and village.  Hands down the highlight of the day. 

Because I was on the roof going camera happy we just about missed the train!  We literally watched the bus leave the town square....which meant that we needed to RUN to the train station.  We ran down the road and just by chance saw a sign for the train station - it was pointing down a hillside where there was a small trail.  It was a switchbacked stair case.  We sprinted it.  Taking two stairs at a time.  I was like a leaping gazelle....or maybe a pink puma (that one was for you Zikes).  No lie.

Cinque Terre has two other towns that I wasn't able to visit.  The town of Vernazza would have been the next stop by train.  Sadly, it was recently dessimated by severe flooding and mudslides.  The town is no longer open to the public.  (In some of my ocean shots you can see a large muddy area still remaining.)  The last town is Monterosso - I've heard that it has the nicest beach but that it's very resort town-ish. 

Needless to say, we made the train and headed back to La Spezia.  It was a perfect day ashore.  I don't think I've ever had a better one....although the monkeys in Gibraltar were mad cool.

Yep, it was epic.

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Cinque Terre :: Manarola

I only spent about an hour in Manarola.  Total bummer.  We took our time on the walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola....which meant that if we wanted the next train we had to hustle through the town.  Again, total bummer. On our first cruise through the town it seemed much quieter than Riomaggiore.  It also seemed smaller for some reason.  I was super gung-ho to make it to all five towns.....so I kind of hustled us along.  As it turns out, I ended up thinking that Manarola was the most picturesque of the towns I saw. 

Manarola had a swimming hole at the base of the town.  It looked perfect.  If it had been a little warmer out I think I would have insisted on a dip.  The town was perfectly situated on the cliffs....it overlooked the mediterranean and then wrapped perfectly around that swimming hole.  There was a small stream that ran under the town and emptied into the swimming hole.

Like I said....the most picturesque.

There was a huge added bonus.  An artist had displayed some bamboo weighted wind charms....I really can't think of a better way to describe them.  The were amazing!  I LOVED THEM!  I took as many photos as humanly possible without missing the train.  (I included a snapshot of the artists card....you can visit the website but it's in Italian....just a heads up.)

To sum things up.  The town was gorgeous - there was a swimming hole - the water was blue - there were once in a lifetime photo opportunities.  Loved it.

Don't forget you can click through the photos that are semi displayed below.  You may need to open each 'page' individually....as in set one doesn't automatically scroll through into set two.  Some of the photos are incredibly washed out by the sun....and I'd love to apologize but, I am actually quite gleeful that we got such a gorgeous sunny day to tour the Cinque Terre!

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Cinque Terre :: Via dell'Amore

Walking from Riomaggiore to Manarola might have been my favorite part of the day.  It took about 20 minutes to walk between the towns and, the walk was easy.  Paved the whole way.  When a walk is quick and easy it's an added bonus when it's gorgeous!

The path is called 'Via dell'Amore' (walk of love) and is partially cut out of the steep cliffs next to the sea.  There were tons of benches over looking the sea and at one point we even came across a small cabana style bar that hung out over the water.  People had been signing their names on the rock cliffs for years and it was insanely fun to read all the names and dates (and of course add our own!).  There was a section of the path where couples have been placing locks and throwing out the keys.  (I think this might have been in a movie at some point and now people do it everywhere?  Not sure.  Anyways, it was cute.)

In summary, the walk was fun and pretty and it was one of the best parts of the day!

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