Thank You Russia...

Russia is cold. It seems strangely appropriate.  I mean really....when you think of Russia you think of fur hats and bundling up in Siberia.  You think of Dr. Zhivago....snow, trains and arm muffs....am I right?

Midnight watches suck when it is snowing sideways.  When you step outside and get a face full of snow....the kind of face full of snow that hurts all you can think is, 'what the hell am I doing here?!'. 

Snow blowing sideways and below freezing temperatures make me feel guilty that I'm a Mate.  I spend the majority of my watch in the cargo control room.  I go out on rounds about the deck however; I do two rounds an hour.  My watchstanders spend the entireity of their watch on deck.  Our ship doesn't spend much time in very cold weather which means that the deck isn't outfitted for cold.  There are no heated spaces outside of the house.

I joined my first ship in Seattle, Washington at the end of November (I was 22).  She got underway the next day for Alaska.  I spent 4 months aboard as an AB and realized exactly how brutal winter at sea truly is (a cold day ashore is nothing compared to even a chilly day at sea).  I was working on getting time on a tanker because, I didn't have the credentials to allow me to sail officer on a tanker....only other types of vessels.  Sailing AB was probably the best thing I ever did - it gave me some experience but, most importantly it gave me a little perspective....like, how cold you get when you stand a deck watch.

Being back in cold weather has me reminiscing about Alaskan winters.  One of my biggest reasons to leave Alaskan waters was that I truly didn't want to do another winter.  I soon found myself enjoying a Persian Gulf summer and decided then and there that I'd take an Alaskan winter any day over a Persian Gulf summer.....now that I'm back in the cold I'm wondering if maybe I should revise that statement! 

I didn't really expect to be really cold this trip.  I didn't bring my fleece neck warmer.  Do you know what this means?  It means that I'm wearing a coral colored pashmina around on deck.  It's bad enough that I wear a fuschia colored carhartt jacket....but paired with a coral colored scarf....talk about a shipboard fashion faux pas!  I'm pretty sure my shipmates (and the dockmen) think I'm freakin' crazy.  (I won't even tell you what it means that I forgot my waterproof gloves.  Think red vinyl....seriously.)

Being cold in Russia is making me yearn for a fur hat....you know the exact style of hat I'm referring to.  I bet if I wore a Russian fur cap no one would even notice that I was wearing a pashmina!  If only I had a fur hat like that when I was up in Alaska....

Wanna know another thing about being cold on a ship?  It has this magical ability to bond the crew.  Everyone is cold...and everyone knows that everyone is cold.  Before you know it people are pitching in to help one another just a little bit more.  Team work is slightly more prevalent.  Shipmates start taking care of one another just a little bit more.....because they secretly want to get taken care of.  I'm also amazed by how suddenly people are ready to have fun.  You'll see way more joking around...way more horsing around....way more chatting in rough and severe weather.  It's as if suddenly people realize that they have the ability to create fun.  Spontaneous snow ball fights on deck?  Yes please!

So, Russia, thank you.  Thank you for helping me remember just how awesome a shipboard winter wonderland can be. Thank you for reminding me of the days where I came into the house so cold that I had to start rewarming my toes with cold water and slowly increase the temperature.  Thank you for validating the purchase of 30 dollar wool socks.  Thank you for reminding me that at one time I was just another young pup on deck who got nervous when they had to tend the lines when they got icy.  Thank you for allowing me the opportunity to wear all the cold weather gear I packed....it makes me feel so much better about my heavy bags.  Thank you for reminding me how amazing a cup of hot cocoa can be.  Thank you for reminding me that there is fun to be had - and that snow ball fights are never a bad idea.  But mostly, thank you for reminding me that at one time I was an AB whose Mate sat in the cargo control room (which is the polite way to say: thank you for helping remind me to not be a douche bag Mate to my AB's).

Black Sea Smoke

 Well Nautie Friends....it's freakin' cold out.  I mean really cold.  It's been stormy, stormy, stormy.  Our port isn't taking any ships due to Gale Force winds and so we (along with every other ship imaginable) have been drifting waiting for the weather to clear.  By drifting I mean getting blown sideways by 50 knot winds. Last night it finally got well below freezing and things started to ice up.  I haven't seen ice since I was fresh out of school sailing in Alaska!  It was borderline exciting....until I remembered that pretty soon I'd be turning valves instead of standing in a toasty bridge....and that they'd be frozen.....and I'd be cold and cranky.

The term 'toasty bridge' may also be relative.  I'm currently on the bridge wearing long underwear (tops and bottoms), a tank top, a polo shirt and, a jacket....and my Uggs.

When I was a cadet I was on a containership that crossed from Hawaii to California - it was the middle of the summer but as soon as we'd hit the open Pacific it would be chilly.  I had one measly fleece jacket.  The Second Assistant Engineer took me to task and said, 'Let me tell you something cadet....SHIPS MOVE!  You always, always, always pack cold weather gear!'.  I've never joined a ship without long undies and smart wool socks since. 

Let me tell you what, those undies and socks have been necessities of late.  Who knew a Mediterranean winter was so much colder than a Mediterranean summer! 

Last night we had sea smoke.  Tres cool.  This happens when the air temperature is substantially colder than the sea temp.  It's eerie....but gorgeous.  Wispy fog curls off the ocean....it literally looks like smoke.  I saw it quite often up in Alaska - and it's been fun to see again.

The other thing about the Black Sea?  It's dark!  This sunrise occured at approximately 0900.  Seriously.  Sea smoke, ice and darkness?  I'm glad this is only going to last for another week or so!

For the record....to take these photos I'd run outside snap two or three and then run back inside....FRIGID!  Enjoy more in the gallery below!

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A Note To My Mom....

Remember when I was a kid and I'd listen to the same thing over, and over, and over again?  Like when I parked myself in front of West Side Story and memorized the whole thing?  Or how about the Lion King?  Or every single Ani DiFranco Album ever out?  Or how about RENT?  This list can go on forever...as you well know. Well, I have a new edition to the list.  Nicki Minaj.  I can't stop listening to her!  Her songs are basically on repeat...and I did that crazy thing I do where I print out the lyrics and practice singing along to make sure I know all the words.  I'm 28.  I literally sat on my bed a few days ago and read the lyrics along with the song....seriously....it was like a flash back to my 14 year old self.  (I thought if anyone can appreciate this it would be you....also I appreciate that you had the patience to not crack my movies and CDs in half....)

After weeks of Nicki Minaj overkill I stumbled upon this:

(written by Nicole....over at Nicole is Better....there is swearing....which is probably why I like this blog....)

"The race was fucking awesome though. I mean, the race itself wasn’t anything special, but I had this crazy out-of-body moment around mile 8 where I was all, “holy shit, LOOK WHAT MY BODY CAN DO” and it made me remember what Gretchen brilliantly dubbed the “Nicki Minaj moment,” which is basically any real life version of that line in Nicki Minaj’s song that goes “Yes I did, yes I did, somebody please tell him who the eff I is” that in my mind loosely translates to, “YOU BEST BELIEVE I’M DOING THIS CRAZY ASS THING. BAM!” Which is why you’ll see Gretchen and I occasionally yelling “NICKI MINAJ” at each other on Facebook and Twitter as a new go-to mantra for things we maybe don’t think we can do but are totally going to do anyway because bitch please."

When I read this all I could think was, 'Yes!  Somebody understands!'.  Remember how we used to yell 'IMUA!'?  Think of Nicki Minaj lyrics as the less Hawaiian more Girl Power version of IMUA!

I actually posted 'Yes I did, yes I did, somebody please tell him who the eff I is' on facebook.  No lie.  When I deem a lyric facebook worthy you know I mean business.

So the song I've really been listening to ALOT is 'Moment 4 Life' (I've included a bit of the lyrics below for your reading pleasure). 

Lyrics to Moment 4 Life : I fly with the stars in the skies, I am no longer trying to survive, I believe that life is a prize, But to live doesn't mean you're alive, Don't worry bout me and who I fire I get what I desire it's my empire And yes I call the shots I am the umpire I sprinkle holy water upon a vampire, vampire And this very moment I'm king This very moment I slay Goliath with a sling, This very moment I bring Put it on everything that I will retire with the ring, And I will retire with the crown, Yes! No I'm not lucky I'm blessed, Yes! Clap for the heavyweight champ, Me! But I couldn't do it all alone, We! Young Money raised me, grew up out in Paisley Southside Jamaica, Queens and it's crazy Cause I'm still hood, Hollywood couldn't change me Shout out to my haters, sorry that you couldn't faze me Ain't being cocky we just vindicated, best believe that when were done This moment will be syndicated, I don't know this night just reminds me Of everything that they deprived me of, kuhh! Ppppp put ya drinks up, it's a celebration every time we link up We done did everything they can think of Greatness is what we wanna brink up. [Chorus:] I wish that I could have this moment for life, for life, for life Cause in this moment I just feel so alive, alive, alive

Now, imagine a bad ass chick with a pink wig rapping this.  Now do you see the appeal?!  (Man, I crack myself up....)

In light of current events (like my news - or the lack thereof) these are my favorite of all the lyrics....and they're dedicated to YOU!

No I'm not lucky I'm blessed, Yes! Clap for the heavyweight champ, Me! But I couldn't do it all alone, We! Young Money raised me, grew up out in Hilo

Mom, when I'm home next (and I mean really, who the hell knows when that will be...) I think we should have some beach cocktails and give shout outs to our haters...saying sorry they couldn't faze us....it ain't being cocky....we just vindicated!

For the record I realize that my Mother is probably the only person who will be able to follow my train of thought in this post......

I See At Sea :: Days and Days of Sunrises

After days and days of drifting I've spent days and days scrambling......I know that I've said that over, and over again...but, I really don't like scrambling! I've kept my camera up on the bridge with me and I've been taking pictures every morning (and sometimes in the evenings when I've worked a FULL day).  My shipmates have figured out that I like sky photos and they've started taking pictures for me when I'm not on the bridge.  The photo of the sun sinking with the promise of a green flash is courtesy of a shipmate.  I'm always leery to leave my camera unattended...some day there will be some sick crotch shot for me to find later...but for now I'll count my blessings and take green flashes!  The Sea of Marmara had a lovely pastel sunrise.

Here it is days and days of sunrises...and a photo of our chart with our drift pattern charted....kinda cool.

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M.L.I.S.W :: The Beach Boys

(This conversation ensued on bridge watch this evening after I started playing The Beach Boys....) *caution:  there is some swearing in the conversation below*

AB1:  Do you hear how these guys sound?

AB2:  Who?  The Beach Boys?

AB1:  Yah!  Listen to how they sound!

AB2:  Nice?

AB1:  No!  Like they're from California!!!!

AB2:  I guess....

AB1:  Everyone from California sounds the same!

AB2:  Really?

AB1:  Yes!  My kids sound just like this!

AB2:  Because you live in California?

AB1:  Yes!  We're victims!

AB2:  Ummmm......what?

AB1:  Victims!  I'm a victim!

AB2:  Let me guess.  A victim of society?

AB1:  That's right!

AB2:  And the world owes you something right?

AB1:  That's right!  I deserve something!

AB2:  LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING BROTHA!  THE WORLD DOESN'T OWE YOU SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  (He's truly yelling this....it wasn't just caps lock for added emphasis...)

ME:  (sitting there silently thinking....really?!  from the beach boys to vicitims of society?!  now we're yelling.....how the hell did that happen?!)

AB1:  IT FUCKING OWES ME SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ME:  Hey, AB1, I think it might be time for you to go on your round.

AB1:  Yeah, okay mate.....heading down....

(the door closes)

AB2:  These mothafuckas are crazy.  All of them.

ME:  (totally silent thinking....that's right....they're all crazy....)

Nautie Friends Ask :: Who decides where you go?

Marilyn asked:  Who decides where you will go next?  Are you on a commercial venture? The short answer is:  She's a tramp....and she does what she's told.

Have you ever heard of a tramp ship?  Back in the day there were a lot ships that were considered tramps.  Back when the majority of cargo was loaded by hand in exotic ports.  For example, a ship going to South America may load bagged grain and it may have taken three weeks.  Ships used to get cargo orders that would take them to said port and they may not know when they were loading cargo where they'd be discharging it.  Sometimes the cargo orders were split - go to this port load this much then go to this port and load the rest - discharge this much here, here and here.  While the vessel would be accomplishing their tasks the managers would be desperately looking for their next cargo.  When they were moving between ports it was called 'tramping around'. 

Tramp ships still exist - there just aren't too many of them in the US Flag fleet.  Containerships would be considered a 'liner'.  Vessels in the liner service know for months ahead of time exactly when they'll be in which port.  There is very little deviation from their schedule - in fact a deviation from the schedule is a really big deal.  If one containership is behind schedule then all the containerships are behind schedule.  Large containership terminals move 'em in and move 'em out like clockwork. 

In the United State most tankers operate 'coast wise'.  Meaning they'll stay along the coast.  For example load in Alaska discharge in Washington, Oregon and California then back to Alaska.  This is because these tankers are built in the states and are considered 'Jones Act Vessels'.  In order for a ship to trade between two US ports its keel must be laid in the US.  Tankers that are on runs like this are almost like liners.  They tend to be on long term charter with an oil company.  For example when I ran on the West Coast my ship was chartered to Tesoro and we carried product for Tesoro.  We knew what ports we'd be going to for about two months ahead of time.  There are a lot more delays associated with tankers so we couldn't bank on the exact day but for the most part we knew when they'd want us there.

While tankers in the states don't usually tramp around it is fairly common in the foreign fleet.  It's called the spot market.  Tankers will often time anchor until prices are just right then you'll see five tankers leave the anchorage at the same time.  I witnessed this a lot in Fujairah, UAE.  Sometimes tankers would anchor there for over a month until their operators could find a cargo for them.

The tanker I'm on now is not a Jones Act Vessel which means we can never trade stateside.  I am as close to a tramp ship as a US Flagged tanker will probably ever be. 

When operators pick up a contract for their vessel it is called a charter or a charter party.  The person who owns the cargo - or who has arranged for the cargo to be moved is called the charterer.  There are a different types of charters but I've only dealt with three:  voyage charters, time charters and bareboat charters.  A voyage charter is exactly that - only good for one voyage - pick up cargo here and take it there - then you're done - this makes you a tramper.  A time charter is good for a specified amount of time - in that time period you will move whatever they tell you to but, you'll probably receive a schedule.  A bareboat charter means that the charterer receives just that a bare boat.  They will find the crew and they will operate it.  I've been on ships that have had the company do very complicated things like bareboat chartering the ship out - the bareboat operator will then charter it back to the company for technical management.  You are essentially being operated by the original company but the in between company provides crewing and payroll services.  Complicated, right?!    

Operating overseas we stay busy with a mixture of time and voyage charters.  We very rarely receive a time charter that is more than 75-90 days long (when I was chartered for Tesoro they were much longer time charters).  Lots of times our time charter will be for about 30 days with about 14-21 days until the next time charter is available.  To stay busy in the interim our business unit will look for voyage charters.  For the most part, our time charters come from the government however; we still retain our commercial status.

This trip to Russia is courtesy of a voyage charter.  Pick it up drop it off....no prob!  I'm still not sure where the cargo will be dropped off.

While going to Russia and transiting the Black Sea is very exciting it's an insane amount of work.  To say that it is a navigational challenge is putting it mildly.  Most times, when we receive orders for a voyage charter I don't have the charts.  We will order the chart locally and then I will scramble around creating a voyage plan. 

For this specific trip the Captain received a phone call at 1800 saying proceed to Russia.  He woke me up at 1815 and by 1830 we were underway.  Needless to say, it is almost impossible to dot your i's and cross your t's.  I've managed to stay 24 hours ahead of the ship on the charts but just by the hairs on my chinny chin chin. 

On that note....I need to go dot some i's and cross some t's.